Where to Find the Best Restaurants & Bars in Split, Croatia

In a city as heavily visited by tourists as Split, I wouldn’t blame you for thinking the restaurant scene is nothing special. That was certainly my own perception before visiting. Thankfully, beyond the sunburned cruise crowds eating at seafront restaurants with pictures on the menu, there's a city quietly building a culinary scene far more interesting than initially meets the eye. 

Split doesn't boast about its restaurant scene. And I think that's exactly the appeal. A genuinely interesting food and drink scene is quietly flourishing in the alleyways, hidden courtyards and side streets of Croatia's second largest city. 

Forget the tourist traps. All the restaurants, gelaterias and bars featured in this guide represent a city that has found its culinary confidence.

Split's food and drink scene rewards those who venture beyond the obvious restaurants along the Riva. The best meals in Split happen when you follow a local recommendation down an unmarked alley or into a sun-dappled courtyard. You can also follow your nose! One of my favorite meals in Split was a place we stumbled upon and thought it looked cool. This new generation of chefs and restaurateurs are doing things differently in Split, and I am here for it.

Where to Find the Best Restaurants & Bars in Split, Croatia

Coffee

4 Coffee

This hole-in-the-wall spot near the Đardin Park is about as no-frills as it gets. There's barely room to stand, let alone sit. But the coffee is great! Order an espresso, find a spot in the park around the corner, and settle in. It's a local experience, affordable, and one of the most honest cups of coffee you'll find in Split.

D16 Coffee

This was my favorite coffee in Split and we went back 2 days in a row! D16 roasts its own 100% Arabica beans and takes the craft seriously. Think single-origin beans, silky cold brew, and baristas who can actually tell you about the coffee in your cup. The cozy stone-walled interior invites you to linger, although it can get tight (and slow) in peak season. 

Pizza

Pizzeria Sette Sorelle

Just around the corner from the Riva waterfront walkway, this pizzeria is SO good. Sette Sorelle is named after the seven sisters of the Pleiades, a constellation and myth from Greek mythology. They serve seven varieties of authentic Neapolitan pizza — and only seven. The dough is properly blistered, the ingredients are top quality, and the presentation is genuinely beautiful. Ask for a table on one of their two outdoor terraces near the old Franciscan Monastery. 


Lui Restaurant

Brand new and already generating buzz, Lui is the most exciting opening on Split's pizza scene right now. Lui is an ambitious, all-day concept combining artisan baking and brunch during the day with wood-fired Neapolitan-style pizza and cocktails at night. The vibes are immaculate and their branding is super cute.


Pizzeria Portas

The outdoor terrace, draped in green vines, has a charming ambiance. It caught my attention walking by, and I just knew we had to eat there. The menu offers 10+ varieties of pizza, from classic Margherita to inventive house specials like the Pizza Vesuvio (pictured below) and Pizza Spalato. The service is warm, the drinks flow easily, and the pizzas arrive quickly from a very hot oven. It's reliably excellent rather than revelatory, which in a city full of tourist traps is an achievement in itself.

Dinner

Articok

Articok is one of the most consistently celebrated restaurants in Split. After eating there, it's not hard to see why. Located in the historic Varoš neighborhood, the restaurant has a chic dining room and a rooftop terrace with harbor views. The small menu blends traditional Dalmatian cuisine with modern techniques. Unsurprisingly, you can find a artichokes on the menu, along with risotto, oysters, slow-cooked beef rib, and fresh fish. It's creative without being pretentious, and the wine list, running to over 50 labels, is well-chosen.

Bokeria Kitchen & Wine

Inspired by Barcelona's legendary La Boqueria market, Bokeria is a stunning two-story restaurant in a converted ironworks. The menu is pan-Mediterranean with some creative dishes like black cuttlefish risotto and pistachio gnocchi. Nothing groundbreaking, but reliably good. I actually ate at Bokeria on both of my trips to Split. The wine list features ~200 labels and a generous selection by the glass options. It is almost always busy, but you can usually snag a table if you’re willing to wait for a little while. Otherwise, make a reservation in advance.

Fabrique

The industrial-chic interior gives me Moulin Rouge vibes, which I suppose is intentional considering the French fusion food found on the menu. Alongside a strong cocktail menu, I can imagine this place gets rowdy at night. We went for lunch and thoroughly enjoyed an elevated onion soup and beef bourguignon risotto. You can expect good food without formality or pretentiousness. The outdoor terrace is prime real estate. 

Parasol

This was my best meal in Split, by far. It's part mid-century bistro, part listening bar, and feels like entirely its own thing. Parasol is unique in the often touristy Split city center. This is a place for real foodies. The vibe is VIBEY, but I am here for it. We sat at the dimly lit bar to enjoy excellent Mediterranean food, natural wines, and a bespoke hi-fi sound system playing trendy records. The menu is concise and well-executed with a few fan favorites, like smash burgers and tuna tartare. Personally, the braised miso cabbage was my favorite thing we ate during our 3 days in Split. 

Dessert

Tiramisù Bar Split

Operating on a to-go model, you can only get one thing here: tiramisu. You’ll find seven distinct flavors of tiramisu, ranging from classic and pistachio to strawberry and lemon. Each is made fresh daily. It is affordable, quick and addictive.


Gelateria aMare

Run by six siblings on the site of their parents' 40-year-old leather goods shop, aMare has a devoted local following. You’ll often find a queue here. Their signature flavour is white chocolate, pomegranate and pistachio, but you honestly can’t go wrong with any of the options. Their salted caramel crunch was delightful, as well as pistachio. 


Gelateria Emiliana

If you only go to one gelato shop in Split, it should be Emiliana. The texture of this gelato is PERFECTION. So creamy and smooth with rich and deep flavors. We came back twice! They've been making gelato for over 60 years, and it shows. Every flavor is made by hand in small batches and the result is obvious. Standout flavors include lemon and lavender, dark chocolate with sea salt, and ricotta and fig. There's usually a queue, but it is completely worth it.


Ela's Gelateria Artigianale

Compared to the other two, Ela's is probably the least exciting of the gelato shops in downtown Split. There is nothing wrong with it, but it is hard to compete with the above spots. So instead, Ela’s makes creative ice cream treats like loaded popsicles and ice cream sandwiches. They use eye-catching colors and friendly branding that draws you in. Gluten-free cones are available, and the staff are cheerful. 

Drinks

KaKantun

By day it's a specialty coffee bar but by evening KaKantun transforms into a gin bar. The menu has an extensive selection of gins and their house cocktails are built around them. The interior is soft-toned and artsy, but I prefer the spacious outdoor courtyard. It is one of the most pleasant spots in Split on a warm afternoon. 

NOOR Fine Spirits & Cocktails

This is the kind of bar you feel lucky to have found. It's tiny (maybe space for 20 people total) and the intimacy is part of the appeal. Over 150 spirits and liquors line the back bar, so you can order what you like. I would recommend selecting from the 20+ signature cocktails which have some unique and local ingredients. The bartender has represented Split at both Zagreb and London Cocktail Week, which tells you everything you need to know about how seriously they take mixology. Go early or go late , otherwise there might not be space.

Have thoughts or questions about this Split food & restaurant guide? Tell me in the comments below!

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